Falkirk Wheel, Linlithgow Palace and Church, Da Vinci Code

In the interests of research for the Clan Tour, during April with a friend, I visited Linlithgow Palace including the fascinating St Michael's Parish Church and the Falkirk Wheel. Although the wheel has been open for 6 years, this was my first visit. The Falkirk Wheel is unique. Not only is it the first boatlift of its type anywhere, but its combination of engineering ingenuity and architectural imagination creates both an eyecatching working sculpture and Scotland's most unusual tourist attraction. It is a very important canal structure whose computer controlled machinery gracefully raises or lowers 500 tonnes of boats and water the 25 metre difference between two canals appears complex; but is deceptively simple. As you experience the journey through a canal tunnel and across an aqueduct - before seeming to drop off the end as your boat is lowered by the Wheel - you will be enjoying the most memorable yet gentle of white knuckle rides.
The Millenium Link Project has refurbished two major canals; the 61 km long Forth & Clyde and the Union Canal, originally 51km. They are now connected by the Falkirk Wheel where the Union Canal has been lengthened by 2km. The Forth & Clyde is Scotland's oldest canal and runs from Bowling on the Clyde to Grangemouth on the Firth of Forth which was completed in 1790 and created the World's first sea to sea ship canal. The Union Canal known as a contour canal as there are no locks along its main length was completed in 1822. The 2 canals were linked by a flight of 11 locks. The Forth & Clyde canal was closed in 1963 and the Union in 1965. The restoration of the canals has involved the repair or reconstruction work on many of its 500 structures - including bridges, locks and acqueducts. It has been an amazing project. It has become a must see visitor attraction in Scotland ranking just behind Edinburgh Castle!

There are a couple of photos of Linlithgow Palace already on the blog. The current palace was started by James I in 1425 after a major fire destroyed the previous castle, church and the town. The Stuart Kings were all involved with additions to it. James V and Mary Queen of Scots were both born here. St Michael's Parish Church is at the entrance to the castle and is still in use today as the parish church. This was my first visit to it and I was overwhelmed by its size and beauty. This was enhanced by members of the congregation who were present to give us information on the church and the stunningly beautiful stained glass windows. After the fire it took 115 years to rebuild. In 1992 the 750th anniversary of a church on this site was celebrated with the installation of a new stained glass window in St Katherine's Aisle by Crear McCartney. Shown is close up of part of this stunning window.

But the most striking change was the addition in 1964 of a crown to replace the one removed in 1821. This needed to be light to avoid overloading the tower, and the 58ft high crown you see today is made of aluminium anodised to a gold finish. As you can imagine it is quite a controversial addition as a blend of old and modern.

It would be easy for St Michael's Church to be overwhelmed by its massive and much better known neighbour, Linlithgow Palace. The fact that this has not happened owes much to the quality of work and vision of those responsible for its rebuilding in the 115 years to 1540: and the efforts of those since 1894 to remedy some of what was done to the church from 1559 to 1813.

During this trip to the Edinburgh area, I also visited Rosslyn Chapel seen in the wonderful film and DVD of the Da Vinci Code. I saw this film for the first time while visiting Bob and Maria in Florida in 2006. I have visited Rosslyn Chapel a few times, over the year, and always learn new information about this exquisite building during each visit. It was famous originally for the Apprentice pillar which the story goes was designed and built by an apprentice while the master mason was away from the site. When he returned and saw how beautiful the pillar was, he flew into a rage and killed the apprentice. Now many thousands of people visit it because of it appearing in the film. If tour members wish to visit the chapel, then it can be included on the tour.

Clan Tour Facts - 2009 Homecoming Scotland

Homecoming Scotland 2009 - marks the 250th anniversary of the birth of our national poet and international cultural icon Robert Burns whose message of friendship and 'Auld Lang Syne' lives on. 2009 will be a celebration of not only Robert Burns but some of Scotland's great contributions to the world: Burns, Golf, Whisky, The Scottish Enlightenment and Innovation, as well as our rich culture and heritage which lives on at home and through the many people of Scots descent who live around the world. A highlight of the planned events will be the Gathering with the Clan Parade and Pageant at Edinburgh Castle on Saturday 25 July. It will be very exciting to be part of this unique experience.

On our tour we will visit the home of Sir Walter Scott who in 1822 persuaded most of Scotland's leading figures to wear tartan to celebrate the Royal visit of George IV to Edinburgh. He even got the King to wear the kilt! It is hoped that Clansmen from around the world will wear their tartan with pride for the parade and pageant. I know from our previous tours that the MacDuff's love to wear their tartan. This photo was taken in St Machars Cathedral in Aberdeen where we had celebrated the renewal of the wedding vows of Paul and Priscilla Schmitz on the 2001 tour.

Bob & Maria Spence, Deep South Regional Conveners are the Clan MacDuff'09 Tour Coordinators in America while I, Elizabeth Kininmonth-Oliver will be the Organiser in Scotland. The provisional tour costs is $2500 per person for 2 people sharing and $2800 per person for a single room. The costs have to be provisional at this stage, as the hotels and visitor attractions are unable to confirm the costs for 2009 this early in 2008. We can also hope the $ to £ rate of exchange many improve. A deposit of $600 is requested to be paid to Bob, full details in the Clan Newsletter.

The tour price includes meals from dinner on 15 July to breakfast on 27 July - there may be a couple of lunches and dinners that are not included, to allow you the opportunity to try local restaurants either at lunch or dinner: entrance fees to all tourist attractions along with coach and ferry travel to our destinations: porterage of 1 piece of luggage per person at hotels: gratuities for staff at hotels.

Weather in Scotland in July is likely to be variable with temperatures varying from 55 degrees to 80 degrees fahrenheit. It can also rain! The landscape usually looks very green in July and the bell heather will be in bloom, adding bright purple hues as we travel across the moors to Oban and Glencoe. Kilchurn Castle is at the end of Loch Awe and is much photographed. I was lucky as the cloud lifted allowing the sun to spotlight the castle.

Details of the daily tours is in the article below.

Clan MacDuff Tour 2009

15 July Arrival at the Beardmore Hotel and Conference Centre in Clydebank. A Meet & Greet is arranged for 6 p.m. followed by Dinner at 7 p.m.

16 July A leisurely start today with Coach departing at 9.30 a.m. Visits today include the Falkirk Wheel and Linlithgow palace. The Falkirk wheel connects the the Forth & Clyde and Union canals and enables boats to travel from Edinburgh to Glasgow or vice versa. The Wheel was built as a result of receiving Millenium Funding and showcases engineering of the 21st Century. Later in the tour we will be investigating engineering from the time of the industrial revolution in the 19th Century.

Linlithgow Palace transports us back to an earlier era. A royal manor stood on this site in 1300 and was fortified and lived in by Edward I and Edward II of England. After the battle of Bannockburn in 1314, it was abandoned by the English. The current ruined castle was built from 1425 by the Stuart Kings of Scotland after a fire in 1424 destroyed the manor and the town of Linlithgow. Mary Queen of Scots was born here on 8 December 1542. The Church of St Michael on the castle site also has a fascinating history and is still in use today having celebrated it's 750th anniversary in 1992. Overnight at the Beardmore Hotel.

17 July Today we will visit Alloway birthplace of Robert Burns and Culzean Castle in Ayrshire. 2009 is the 250th Anniversary of the birth of Robert Burns born on 25th January 1759 - a wonderful time to visit his home and learn about our most famous poet. At the southern end of Alloway are the Burns Monument, Garden and Statue House, the Brig o' Doon and the Tam o' Shanter Experience which together form the Burns National Heritage Park. Not far away is Alloway Old Kirk which played a starring role in the poem Tam o' Shanter. At the northern end of Alloway are Burns Cottage and the Burns Cottage Museum. It is fascinating to view some of Burns original letters and poems. Leter in the Tour, we will follow Robert Burns' life to Dumfries.

Culzean Castle was started in the 1590s which means that it was already 200 years old when Robert Burns was born. However it was in the 18th century that it was transformed from a simple tower house into a neoclassical mansion. Culzean castle today is the result of many years of restoration by the National Trust of Scotland. Robert Adam who was the leading architect of his day was involved in the 18th century refurbishment. In November 1945 Dwight Eisenhower was invited to accept a tenacy of a specially created guest flat at Culzean castle as a thank you from the Scottish people for Americas support during the 2nd World War. An exhibition on the first floor of the castle, highlight the achievements of General Eisenhower. Overnight at the Beardmore Hotel.

18 July Travel north and west today with a cruise on Loch Lomond, a visit to the Cruachan underground Power Station and a 2 night stay in Oban. Loch Lomond is one of the most beautiful areas of natural beauty in Scotland and became our first National Park in 2002. Loch Lomond and the Trossach National Park has an area of 750 square miles. We will enjoy a short cruise on Loch Lomond, the largest inland loch in Scotland (24 miles long by 5 miles wide), to gain views of the mountains, islands and wildlife. We will drive north through the park for lunch at Crianlarich. In the afternoon we will visit the Cruachan underground power station. Situated on the side of Loch Awe, the power station is in a cavern under Ben Cruachan. This is the first high head reversible pumped storage hydro scheme.The visitor centre houses the free exhibition area and is the starting point for our guided tour. The power station lies one kilometre below ground in a massive cavern, high enough to house the Tower of London. Here turbines convert the power of water into electricity, available at the flick of a switch. This is an underground world on a spectacular scale. Around 5 p.m. we will arrive in Oban, the "Gateway to the Isles", this picturesque port with its thriving arts and crafts tradition.

19 July This is our day to explore 2 islands, Mull and Iona. We will take the ferry from close to our hotel to Craignure on the Island of Mull. We will visit Duart castle home of the Clan McLean and the enchanted religious island of Iona. The ferry trip takes 40 minutes and the trip goes through some enchanting mountain scenery. Mull is a wild and beautiful island with over 300 miles of dramatic scenic coastline and stunning beaches which rise to the peak of Mulls' highest mountain Ben More at3000 feet. Mull is a nature lover's dream with wildlife galore to marvel at on and around the island. It is possible to see otters, sea eagles, whales and seals. Iona is often referred to as the 'Cradle of Christianity' in Scotland; as, in 563 AD, this was the first place in Scotland that St Columba landed after being banished from Ireland. To this day, Iona Abbey retains its spiritual atmosphere and remains one of Scotlands most sacred and historic sites. Attractions include the Abbey itself, St Columba's writing cell and a superb collection of over 180 medieval carved stones and crosses. The Iona community continues the tradition of daily worship and visitors are welcome to attend the daily services.

Standing proudly on a clifftop guarding the Sound of Mull, Duart castle enjoys one of the most spectacular and unique positions on the West Coast of Scotland. For over 400 years this has been the base of the Clan Maclean's sea-borne power. Duart was originally a rectangular wall enclosing a courtyard. In 1350 Lachlan Lubanach, the 5th Chief, married Mary Macdonald, the daughter of the Lord of the Isles and she was given Duart as her dowry. Lachlan Lubanach built the keep (tower house) on the outside of the original curtain wall but forming an integral part with it, and enclosed the well. Later in the mid 17th century small vaulted cellars with a hall at first floor level and perhaps a small chamber above, were built within the courtyard on the South East side. At the same time the defence to the gateway entrance to the courtyard was strengthened by a two story gatehouse. In 1673 Sir Allan Maclean rebuilt the three story building on the North East side of the courtyard, facing the entrance. There was a kitchen at ground floor level and residential rooms above. In 1691 the Macleans surrendered Duart and all their lands on Mull to the Duke of Argyll. The Castle, although in a fairly ruinous condition was used as a garrison for Government troops until 1751. It was then abandoned until 1910 when it was purchased by Sir Fitzroy Maclean, 26th Chief. He then set about the enormous task of restoring the building. We return by ferry to Oban and stay there overnight.

20 July Today travel north to Glencoe "The Glen of Weeping" where the Campells murdered the McDonalds in 1592; from there we head south for a fascinating visit to Stirling. Glen Coe is a steep-sided valley climbing steadily south east from the village of Glencoe on the sea-loch, Loch Leven. It emerges from its enveloping mountains onto Rannoch moor. Glen Coe is best known for an event that took place at 5 a.m. on the morning of 13 February 1692, but whose origins go back much further. For the previous two hundred years the Glen Coe MacDonald's had been regarded as cattle-thieves, especially by the Campbell's, whose more fertile lands lay towards Loch Awe to the south and Glen Lyon to the south east. After a stop here to enjoy the beauty of this area we will head south reaching Stirling in time for lunch.

We will go to Bannockburn site of the 1314 battle won against all the odds by Robert the Bruce against Edward II of England. This win led to the re establishment of an Independent Scotland and a few years later to the Declaration of Arbroath. The journey will continue with visits to Stirling Castle and the Wallace Monument. Stirling Castle's location rivals even Edinburgh Castle for sheer magnificance as it sits on its high volcanic rock, visible for many miles in every direction. The site is important as Stirling guards the crossing point of the River Forth and would have been of strategic interest to anyone wanting to control central Scotland. The castle provided a home for Scottish Kings and Queens from the days of Alexander I until the Union of the Scottish and English Crowns under James VI. The Great Hall was built between 1501 and 1504 by James IV. Scotland's National Hero, William Wallace was born in 1270. In 1297 he led an uprising against the English which spread throughout south and central Scotland. Teaming with Sir Andrew de Moray and his men, the Scottish forces soundly defeated the English at the Battle of Stirling Bridge. Following this victory Wallace was knighted and became Guardian of the Realm. After a full and exciting day learning many aspects of Scottish history and travelling through some stunning landscapes, it will be lovely to relax at New Lanark.

21 July A more relaxed day today with a visit to the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum in Glasgow which was refurbished and reopened in 2006. The architecture, art and displays are stunning. We will also spend some time at New Lanark learning about Robert Owen and his Mill and millworkers. Also time to enjoy the leisure facilities at the New Lanark Mill Hotel. New Lanark Cotton Mill and village has been beautifully restored and is a World Heritage site. The fascinating history of this 18th century cotton mill village nestled into spectacular south Lanarkshire valley in southern Scotland close to the Falls of Clyde. The village first rose to fame when Robert Owen was mill manager 1800-1825. Owen transformed life in New Lanark with ideas and opportunites which were at least a hundred years ahead of their time. Child labour and corporal punishment were abolished, and villagers were provided with decent home, schools and evening classes, free health care, and affordable food. Highlights of any visit will include the magical New Millennium Experience ride and an audio-visual theatre show called 'Annie McLeod's Story' where the ghost of a mill girl appears on stage.

The Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum is a fabulous space to display art and artefacts from Scotland and beyond. Scottish Art is little known outside Scotland, but we had some very talented artists in the 19th and early 20th centuries. There is work by the Glasgow Boys - a group of Scottish artist who rebelled against Victorian sentimentality and revolutionised Scottish painting between 1880 and 1895. The Scottish Colourists - Fergusson, Peploe, Cadell and Hunter brought a colourful French style to Scottish painting. We can compare our Scottish artist with work by French, Italian and Dutch artists. If our artists are not well known, many people have heard of Charles Rennie Mackintosh the famous architect and designer who like many before him was better known in England than Scotland. However much of his work in Glasgow can still be seen today and examples of it are on display at the museum. We can also explore Scottish wildlife and life in Scottish lochs. There is also an opportunity to learn a little about Scotland's first people. The museum is an amazing experience. I have already visited twice and look forward to my next visit!

22 July Today we head south to Dumfries and Galloway. Our first stop today is at Gretna Green - famous for run away marriages over the centuries; a short stop at the Ruthwell cross and then a visit to Caerlaverlock Castle. After lunch we will visit one of many Border Abbeys - Sweetheart and the John Paul Jones Museum - Father of the American Navy.

Every year over 4000 weddings take place in Gretna Green which amounts to about one in eight of all weddings that take place in Scotland. Gretna Green lies a mile across the border into Scotland from England. In 1754 a marriage act in England meant that noone could get married there under the age of 21 without parental consent. This law did not apply in Scotland where anyone of 16 or over can get married without their parents' consent. Gretna Green was the first place you reached in Scotland when following the main route north from Carlisle and thus became a centre for runaway marriages. The act of marriage came to be marked by the blacksmith striking his anvil, symbolising the joining together two pieces of metal in the heat of the blacksmith's fire. Like them the couples involved were joined to the heat of the moment and bound together for eternity.

The Ruthwell Cross was carved in the early 8th century. It is richly decorated with Christian symbols. The two faces are carved with a series of panels, each one illustrating a scene from the Gospels and accompanied by a Latin test. It is the most important Ango-Saxon cross in Scotland and a monument of international importance.

Caerlaverock Castle is one of the most attractive and interesting castles in Scotland. It is surrounded by a moat and is a most unusual shape, an equilateral triangle with its apex at the huge northern gatehouse. This castle was started in 1270, completed by 1300 when it was successfully besieged by 87 knights and 3000 men of Edward I of England. The English retained the castle until 1312. The castle was besieged again in 13 56 this time by the Scots who were not sure of Maxwell's loyalty to the crown. The castle we will view mainly dates back to the rebuilding in the late 1300's and 1400s. After the union of the crowns in 1603, peace finally descended on the borders after 400 years of sporadic warfare. In 1634 Robert Maxwell, the First Earl of Nithsdale, built the east range whose ornamental stonework still dominates the interior of the castle.

The substantial remains of Sweetheart Abbey, near the village of New Abbey are the testament of the love John Balliol's wife Lady Devorgilla had for him. On 10 April 1273 she signed a charter establishing a new Cistercian abbey here in memory of her husband who had died four years earlier. Thanks to the Reformation her later endowment of a college at Oxford University in his name turned out to be a more enduring memorial. After her death in 1290 Lady Devorgilla was buried in the sancturay of the abbey church with the casket containing her husband's heart. Sweetheart Abbey stopped being a religious community after the Reformation of 1560. Over the centuries stone from the Abbey was used to build in the surrounding area. In 1779 local subscribers clubbed together to conserve the remainder of the abbey church.

Our final visit today is to the birthplace museum of John Paul Jones. He was born in 1747 in a traditional Scottish cottage. He was a contemporary of Robert Burns and is considered to be the "Father of the American Navy".

23 July A more relaxed day, we will spend the morning visiting Dumfries and Ellisland Farm where Burns' farmed and after lunch we will visit Threave House and their beautiful gardens along with a visit to Kirkcudbright. Dumfries was founded as a Royal Burgh in 1186 on the east side of the lowest crossing point of the River Nith. No visit to Dumfries would be complete without seeing the Globe Inn, Burns Howff. It was indeed his favourite HOWFF (an inn or meeting place) and with its close retains much of its former atmosphere. Robert Burns was 29, in the prime of his life and the peak of his powers when he came to Ellisland Farm in Dumfries. Many of his best loved nature poems were nspired by the tranquil setting of Ellisland farm. Today it provides great insight into life on a farm 200 years ago. Tam O'Shanter was written here and is probably his best known poem. The following is the first few lines from it:
"When chapman billies leave the street,
And droughty neibors, neibors, meet;
As market days are wearing late,
And folk begin to tak the gate,
While we sit bousing at the nappy,
An' getting fou and unco happy,
We think na on the lang Scots miles,
The mosses, waters, slaps and stiles,
That lie between us and our hame,
Where sits our sulky dame,
Gathering her brows like gathering storm
Nursing her wrath to keep it warm". After he gave up Ellisland Burns lived at 24 Burns Street, south of the High Street and his mausoleum is in St Michael's Churchyard. Greyfriars Church overlooks a statue of Robert Burrns sculpted in Italy in 1882. Burns spent the last year of his life here, dying in Dumfries in 1796.

Threave house was built in 1872 by William Gordon, a Liverpool businessman for use as a summer house by his extensive family. There are 24 hectares of gardens which continue to be developed today through the National Trust for Scotland who own the house and gardens and use them for their school of practical gardens. There will be a chance to visit the glasshouses and to visit various gardens within the area.

24 July Today we will visit Jedburgh and stop at the beautiful abbey as well as visiting, Mary Queen of Scots Centre. We will also visit Abbotsford House, home of Walter Scott a famous writer and poet and finally Traquair House before completing our trip to Edinburgh. Jedburgh is a border town

and was invaded by the English on numerous occasions in the 13th and 14th century most notably by Edward I of England. It is thought that there was a religious building on the site of the Abbey as early as the 700s and there is a beautifully carved fragment of a shrine from this area on display in the visitor centre. By 1080 the Church was well established and by 1154 it had been elevated to an Abbey and populated with Augustinian monks. Alexander III of Scotland married his wife Yolande de Drew here in 1285. Afterwards conflict overtook the abbey and it was used as lodgings for King Edward I of England in 1296 on one of his trips north. The Abbey continued to be under attack over the centuries. It is now in the care of Historic Scotland. Throughout much of the last few hundred year Jedburgh has been an important woollen centre, and in the early 1800s it also supported no fewer than 3 breweries. The town today is built largely of the same stone as the ruins of its abbey: probably no coincidence as the domestic parts of the abbey were used as a quarry by the townsfolk after the Reformation.

Sir Walter Scott lived from 15 August 1771 to 21 September 1832. He can be thought of as the first international literary superstar. As a poet and as a historical novelist, he was popular throughout the world in his day and, to an extens, his books remain read today. He did much to popularise the image of Scotland particularly in relation to tartan and landscapes. Scott was born and educated in Edinburgh and practised law there. Due to childhood ill health, he spent time in the borders with his grandparents and acquired a broad knowledge of folklore and ballads. His most famous poem published in 1810 was The Lady in the Lake and his most famous novels were Waverley, Rob Roy and Ivanhoe. He unearthed the Honours of Scotland: the crown, sceptre and sword of state which had been locked away deep in the bowels of Edinburgh Castle forgotten since the Act of Union in 1707. In 1820, he was created a Baronet and in 1822 he organised the visit by King George IV to Scotland: the first visit of a reigning monarch to Scotland since 1650. Scott is buried in the ruins of Dryburgh Abbey.

Traquair House has been occupied for 900 year and has remained almost unchanged for over 300 of those years. Traquir is the oldest continuously inhabited house in Scotland. It has stood here since at least 1107 when Alexander I of Scotland signed a royal charter at Traquair. It was originally a tower house and was used both as a royal palace and a hunting lodge. Both Edward I and II of England stayed at the House during the Wars of Independence. Since 1491 Traquair has remained in the ownership of the same family - the Stewarts. Mary Queen of Scots stayed here with her husband Lord Darnley and their infant son James later tobecome King of both Scotland and England. In the early 1700 the family were Jacobites and the 5th Earl of Traquair welcomed Prince Charles Edward Stuart to the house during the 1745 Jacobite uprising. After the Prince's departure the Bear Gates at the head of the main drive from the house were closed, the Earl vowing that they would not be reopened until a Stuart king was crowned in London. The gates remain closed to this day.

25 July This morning we will visit MacDuff Castle on the Fife coast before attending the Gathering at Holyrood Park and the Pageant at Edinburgh Castle.

MacDuff castle is not in as good state of repair as many of the castles that we have visited on our trip. The tower is the only remaining part of a large building which was first built in the 13/14th centuries. The ruin lies on the cliff-top above the Wemyss caves near East Wemyss. Edward I of England visited here in 1304, staying with MacDuff's descendant, Michael Wemyss. However, Wemyss later joined forces with Robert the Bruce and Edward ordered the castle to be destroyed. After a trip along the Fife coast it will be time to join the other Clans for the Highland Gathering in Holyrood Park Edinburgh.

26 July This morning there will be an opportunity to attend a church service, before spending the remainder of the day at the Highland Games.

27 July After breakfast end of the tour.